Spray max USC 2k High Gloss Clearcoat Aerosol (2 PACK)

The SprayMax USC 2K High Gloss Clearcoat is an absolute game changer for DIYers and professionals alike! I used it to finish a custom project, and the results were fantastic. The high gloss finish gives the surface a smooth, shiny, and durable coating that rivals professional auto shops. The application process is super easy with the aerosol can—just follow the instructions, and you’re good to go! It dries fast, and the two-pack is a great deal, especially for larger jobs. The finish is resistant to chipping and fading, which makes it perfect for both interior and exterior use. Definitely recommend this for anyone looking to achieve a professional-grade look at home!

This high gloss clearcoat gives my projects a professional, durable finish. The aerosol application is smooth, and the results are excellent! It's easy to use, dries fast, and leaves a beautiful shine. Definitely a go-to for any paint job.

The Spray Max USC 2K High Gloss Clearcoat is hands down the best clearcoat you can get in an aerosol can. I’ve used it on several automotive and DIY projects over the years, and it never disappoints. The finish is smooth, deep, and professional-looking with a high-gloss shine that truly lasts.What sets it apart is the two-part formula—it gives you that durable, chemical-resistant finish you’d expect from a professional spray gun setup, but in a convenient can. It sprays evenly, dries quickly, and hardens into a rock-solid clear that can be wet-sanded and buffed just like a shop job.This stuff has become a staple in my garage. I’ve purchased it multiple times over the years because nothing else in a can comes close. If you want showroom-quality results without a compressor or gun, this is the clearcoat to go with.

Amazing product! The Spray Max 2K Clearcoat delivers a flawless, high-gloss finish that rivals professional spray guns. Easy to use, dries quickly, and provides excellent durability. Perfect for automotive touch-ups or custom projects. The 2-pack is great value for the quality. Highly recommend for anyone seeking a glossy, long-lasting protective coat. Worth every penny!

Product is great but the spray heads will cause issues. I was on to final clear coat after sanding between coats. The can I used spit blobs all over my final paint job and forced me to sand again and buy another can of clear coat. Really disappointed in the spray nozzle on these cans.

I recently used the Spray Max USC 2K High Gloss Clearcoat Aerosol for a DIY automotive paint project, and I’m extremely impressed with the results! The clear coat gives a fantastic high-gloss finish that looks as good as a professional job. It adds a smooth, shiny layer that really enhances the color and depth of the paint underneath, making it look brand new.One of the standout features is the 2K technology, which provides a durable and long-lasting finish. It’s resistant to chips, scratches, and even UV damage, which is perfect for a vehicle that’s exposed to the elements. The spray nozzle is designed for precision, allowing for an even and consistent application without any drips or streaks.The application process was easy, and the spray comes out in a fine mist, allowing for even coverage. I was able to achieve a professional-looking result with very little overspray, which was a pleasant surprise. The drying time was fast, and after just a few hours, the surface was dry to the touch and looked flawless.I also love how durable the finish is. I’ve used other clear coats before, but this one holds up exceptionally well, even after weeks of use in various weather conditions. It resists fading and keeps the shine looking great.

I hope some other newbie like me will learn from my mistakes. But first:Pros:If you do it right, it comes out great and is easyNice glossy sheen, no polishing or compounding neededCons:Directions on can might not apply to your conditions (explained below)Learning curve involvedWhen can gets low (but still feels like it has product) it might spit dry-sprayFirst, the directions on the can say it is ideal to spray around 68d F, with 50% or less humidity. It then states to stay about 10" back and go slow. But it doesn't say if you are NOT spraying in 68d this doesn't apply, and you might need to get close and go fast, if it's warmer.My garage was 80d and "staying 10" back and going slow" was the exact WRONG thing to do. It resulted in "dry-spray" which means the paint starts to atomize and doesn't collect into a solid sheet on the panel, but dries in individual droplets. The result is extreme orange peel and a matte finish, instead of a glossy finish.9hrs later I wet-sanded the clear flat, which caused some burn-through into the color paint, which then needed touching up.When I cleared the panel again, was sure to do it early in the morning when it was 69F in the garage... Well at that temp the paint stays fluid longer, so it went on like nice solid sheet, but ran and sagged after a few seconds, as now I was too close or went TOO slow for the temperature I was spraying in!... 9hrs later wet-sanded the runs and sags until the panel was flat again. And finally I had it figured out.... cleared it in the afternoon when it was hot, but got close - about 4" - and moved fast. And THAT came out perfect. Matched the factory finish without any messing afterward.So how close you are, and how fast you move, is totally dependent on the temperature. This is "duh!" for experienced painters, but newbies usually follow what's written on the can. I wish the can would have said, "If it is not 68d but much warmer, you will need to move in closer and go faster."Also, I read many sites that said to do an initial "tack coat" (like is recommended with primer and base). You cannot 'feather' clear coat, or "apply a light tack coat." You will end up with severe orange peel. This paint has to go on in a solid sheet, where all the droplets combine or pool into one flat surface. Individual drops will each reflect the light in a different direction creating that heavy orange peel with a dull matte finish. You need a solid sheet to reflect the light evenly, to get that high gloss look.One annoyance - and maybe it was just me, but I found when the cans still had product but were low (maybe 1/4 full) I'd be in the middle of applying a second or third coat and suddenly the can would shoot aerosol with little paint for a split second, spitting dry-spray all over my previously perfect panel - which would result in me having to wait 8rs until I could wet-sand it flat and do a new coat.After that happened twice I stopped using cans once they felt like they were about 2/3rds gone. Maybe a quick spritz of a small repair area would be ok but I was clearing a fender panel in one case, and a bumper in another. Something to beware of anyway.So having done it wrong every way possible, and having to re-do it and re-buy the paint multiple times, (not to mention base when I burned through sanding the clear), I'd say that once you have the hang of using it in your particular conditions, it's great. And you might get lucky and use it right, right off the bat. But it can require 'practice' for newbies. Especially if painting a large area like a panel, vs a small area or something like a guitar.One tip I read that worked for me: After the can is activated the shelf life is about 48hrs - probably less in the heat. But if you put the left-over paint can in the fridge, it will stay a good long time (months, reportedly). I put one of my cans that was about half gone in the fridge and ordered more... when the new clear came 2 weeks later, I used the can from the fridge first by letting it warm up a couple hours in the garage. Then shook it a couple min and it was as good as a freshly activated can. And no, this isn't the can that spit. (I learned by then to not use any cans once they felt like they had about 1/4 product left.)