MORryde CRE2-33 CRE3000 Suspension System, Tandem Axle - 33-Inch Wheel Base

In short, I bought this. Installed it myself. Survived the experience. Glad I did it. Want a ridiculous amount of detail? Keep reading.PLEASE NOTE: Below I refer to parts that are part of MORryde’s shackle kit and NOT with the CRE3000 alone. Don’t think you’ll be able to do everything I describe below with only the CRE3000.On impulse I decided to upgrade the suspension on my 2006 26' travel trailer. Myself. In my driveway. I've never done anything like this before, but how hard could it be?So without revealing to my wife my grand plan to turn our driveway into an RV maintenance yard, I ordered the CRE3000 and (since I'd be removing the wheels and rusty bolts anyway), I decided to upgrade the shackles as well with the MORryde heavy duty shackle kit. I think it's called "wet" because you can lubricate it. ( .Additional stuff purchased, using this project as an excuse, included: A 2 ton floor jack with a 23+ inch lift (enough range to lift my trailer at the frame). A grease gun (for the zerk fittings on all the new bolts ). A 24" breaker bar (rusty bolts are fun!). A can of B'laster (. A set of impact sockets for my air powered impact gun. Two tall jack stands (tall enough to support the frame jacked up). Some work gloves.Additional stuff I used that I already had on hand: An air compressor. Air powered impact gun (pretty excited about my 2nd opportunity to use it in 10 years). A second, much smaller floor jack (I didn't expect to use this, but it was VERY handy to have - details below). A creeper/crawler borrowed from a neighbor. Two small jackstands for supporting the disconnected axles. A couple wrenches of appropriate size for my bolts. A rubber mallet. A hammer. A punch.I planned to tackle the project with my 13 year old able assistant on a Saturday afternoon. So starting Thursday, I began soaking the eleven year old bolts/nuts (7 on each side of the trailer) with B'laster hoping to make them easier to remove after a couple days of soaking.Saturday afternoon I hauled the trailer out to the driveway, jacked it up, placed the two tall jackstands to support the trailer, and removed the two wheels (on one side), revealing the entire suspension. Then, thinking it might take a some pressure off the leaf spring and bolts, I lifted each axle just a little bit and supported them with small jackstands. Now it's time to remove those rusty old bolts.So the bolts faced away from me. That is, they were inserted with the head toward the outside and the nuts on the inside (under the trailer). No problem. I put a wrench on the backside to hold the nut in place, and then used my air-wrench to turn the head. Or tried to. Didn't budge the tiniest bit. Then I hung my 13 yr old off the end of the breaker bar. Then I hung myself off the end of the breaker bar. Didn't budge the tiniest bit. More P'blaster, a little banging with a hammer to try and free the frozen bolts. No joy with any of the 7 bolts. I was extremely frustrated and had to really bite my tongue to avoid language my assistant shouldn't hear. Until one bolt finally gave just a little bit.At this point, some of you more knowledgeable folks already know my mistake. It turns out the bolts themselves (on my trailer) aren't intended to turn. Near the head of the bolt is a small area of grooves that locks the bolt in place. The nut has to be removed from the stationary bolt. At least until the nut backs off far enough that the bolt can be tapped out past the grooves and then turns as you might expect. So learn from my mistake - apply pressure to the nuts, not the bolts. I wish I had learned this lesson an easier way, say by looking at the brand new replacement bolts, seeing the grooves and realizing their obvious purpose. But that's not my style. Plus it was a lesson in perseverance for my assistant. If at first you don't succeed, cuss, hit it with a hammer, nearly give up, and then get lucky.Anyway, after the bolt design revelation things started moving much faster. Between the air-gun and breaker bar all the nuts came free without too much difficulty. The creeper and small size of my assistant (compared to me) was invaluable in removing the nuts under the trailer. Thank goodness for sturdy jackstands and his mom staying in the house.Then we used a punch to knock the bolts out, freeing the leaf springs and removing the triangular center hanger. More use of the punch to push the worn OEM plastic bushings out of all the bolt holes. Now disassembly is complete.Reassembly was mostly straightforward. Insert the shiny brass bushings (from the shackle kit) into all the bolt holes and gently tap in with rubber mallet. Hang the new CRE3000 in the center and drive in the center bolt, put the nut on the back, but not tight yet. Reattach the leaf springs to the left & right of the CRE3000 using the new shackles and bolts from the kit. One tip - on the center bolt (that hangs the CRE) the zerk fitting in the head of the new bolt faces outward toward you. On ALL other bolts, the zerk fittings face inward, under the trailer. That's supposed to make it easier to reach and lube when the tires are on. So unlike the original bolts, all the nuts except the center bolt will now be on the outside rather than inside. That'll be handy in the future when I forget the lesson learned above.The left & right ends of the leaf springs that attach to the front & rear frame hangers can be a little tricky to get aligned so the bolts will go through. The holes will be too high, too low, or crooked. This is where I used my small floor jack to push up on the end of a spring raise it, or push down on the spring to lower it. To push down on the spring, I set the jack on TOP of the spring and pumped it up until the jack foot hit the frame above. Than as I continued to pump, the jack pushed the spring down aligning the holes. It took a bit of fiddling, including with the axle jack stand, to get the leaf spring ends reconnected, but in the end it wasn't really hard.The last step was to tighten all the nuts and lubricate the 7 bolts with the new grease gun. Then we we replaced the tires and we were done. With one side. It had taken us about 4 1/2 -5 hours and daylight was running out. We finished the job the next day and, with the lessons learned, it took only about 2 1/2 hours to finish the second side. So roughly seven hours total including the time penalty for stupidity.We went for a test drive and I immediately noticed two things. First, the tires/axles didn't immediately fall off. That was a relief. My mind had been full of "what ifs" and "what did I forget?" and "where did that extra bolt come from?" (just kidding). The second thing was how QUIET the trailer was. I had gotten used to lots of squeaks and squeals over speed bumps and maneuvering at low speed, but now the trailer is whisper quiet in all circumstances and seems to float along behind the truck rather than bounce. I'm very pleased with the end result and glad I chose to do it as a DIY. It was actually a very satisfying project to complete with my son.

I used these equalizers to replace the stock metal equalizer on a brand new travel trailer. I elected to also install a MorRyde wet bolt and shackle kit to replace the thin OEM Lippert shackles that came with the trailer.Installation was fairly straight forward. I was able to change out the equalizer and suspension components on one side of the trailer while the other side was still on the ground. Make sure you use good safety stands on the side that is jacked up.If you are changing out the bushings and other suspension components, do the end of the springs first before trying to tackle the equalizer. This will make the job much easier. Another tip is to make sure you have wooden blocks or jacks ready to support each axle while you have the components disassembled. All in all, it took me about 3 hours per side to replace the bushings, bolts, shackles, and equalizer. That also included greasing the wet bolts.Once the job was complete, we towed the rig for a couple hundred miles. The ride was nice, and there was zero noise that you typically find with OEM suspension components. Please note that there are rubber components in these equalizers, so I understand that they will likely wear out and have to be replaced at some time in the future. What is nice is that MorRyde provides specific information in the instructions on how to check the parts for wear.I'm including a photo of the parts installed after the job was completed. I'd purchase these parts again.

This product is a must to replace the stiff, original suspension.Installation did take a while, and plenty of patience was required matching up the holes between the frame and leaf springs, but it is worth it! Installation took roughly 6+ hours, which also included re-greasing the bearings. If you have a level concrete base, it will be a breeze when moving around the floor jacks, installing on dense grade rock base was an added challenge.Within the first 5min of driving on these, I noticed a major difference in pulling quality. The trailer smoothly went over dips and bumps in the road that would have originally bounced my truck all over. It’s not a 100% cure all, major bumps in the road still had some movement in the truck, but the overall change is well worth the price and amazing quality you will get.I also bought the upgraded wet-bolt kit and shackles, which I’m sure added to this great performance.If you have the original suspension, buy this now, you will be very satisfied!

What a difference in the ride. Made a huge difference in the ride and towing. Fairly easy to install.

After watching a few videos and taking measurements, I ordered the MORryde CRE2-33 CRE3000 Suspension System, Tandem Axle - 33-Inch Wheel Base, specifically for my 2007 Jayco Eagle 32' 5th wheel. I also ordered the heavy duty shackle upgrade with wet bolt kit.I followed safety protocol using Jack's and jack stands to have easy access to the trailer suspension. Things went fairly well. I had to use my Sawzall to cut one of the bolts as the nut was stripped.I removed the old equalizers and used a slightly larger bolt that I found in my collection to remove the old nylon bushings. I cleaned everything up with brake cleaner and wire brushes, and assembled everything using fresh grease.Upon completion I cleaned and painted my brake drums, as I was also updating my rims to aluminum.I popped the dust caps off to assess the bearing conditions and added a bit of Lucas hub oil before popping them back on. I checked everything for torque specs and put the new rims and tires on.I took it for a spin and found it trailed reay nice. I pull a trailer with my Ranger crew behind my 5th wheel, and it all follows nicely.

put these on your trailer, easy install and your trailer will ride much nicer. putting them on a second trailer i like them so much.

Installed this on my 2012 Timber Ridge 240RKS. Did the wet bolt kit at the same time, took about 4 hours total and it’s works great! Trailer is silent now, and seems to handle bumpy roads much better!Just don’t forget you loosen the spring mount nuts from the inside, the bolts are splined into the shackles and spring mounts.

Product seems well built with good instructions. Have only completed short test drive at time of review.Should be sold together with wet bolt kit.

I put a set of these on my hunting cargo trailer last year. They made such a huge difference in the ride, I got a set for my 28 ft RV trailer. I do a lot of gravel road travel. I'm looking forward to a smoother ride

Arrived quickly, packaged very well in factory packaging. The condition of the paint does make it look used but I think it was just thought handling in the factory.I will be installing on a 2019 apex nano 208BH. Initial fit looks perfect will lift camper 1/2-3/4”Will update once installed.